What the Beginning and Advancing Aquarist Absolutely Needs to Know and Do When Starting An Aquarium

What A Beginner Needs To Know About Marine Aquarium Keeping

A number of topics have already been discussed in this article concerning saltwater aquarium keeping, being included with those for freshwater aquariums.  Below are topics that need to be emphasized for saltwater keeping.

It is often better for the aquarist to become familiar with freshwater aquarium keeping before venturing into saltwater aquarium keeping.  This gives the aquarist the opportunity to become familiar with the new learning experience of the basics of "water keeping."  As has been expressed by others, marine aquarium keeping is less forgiving when the aquarist makes mistakes.  It is easier for the advanced freshwater aquarist to start in marine aquarium keeping because of already having experienced the basics in "water keeping."  Marine aquarium keeping is more difficult than either freshwater aquarium or pond keeping for the following reasons:

Preparing The Saltwater Environment For Marine Aquarium Keeping
The choice is commercial bottled seawater or a saltwater mix from the dealer supplying your aquarium needs, or if you are near the sea, natural coastal sea water.  While the best saltwater to use for marine aquarium keeping is natural sea water, it needs to be pollution free.  Bottled liquid seawater formulations usually can be depended upon for this. For those with access to natural coastal seawater, do not use it directly in a marine aquarium.  What with river and sewage runoffs along the coast, there are going to be harmful microorganisms and detritus in the water. 

However, providing that the source is fully marine, free of sewage, and not brackish from freshwater runoff, there are simple means for preparing natural coastal sea water for marine aquarium use.  This should particularly involve eliminating the organisms and detritus in the water. 

Store the water for weeks or more in a cool dark environment with constant moderate aeration, such as by using an air pump and airstone(s).  The particles will tend to form in sediment at the bottom.  The microorganisms in the water, including disease carrying bacteria, will expire from lack of light and hosts, if given sufficient time to do so.  Within two weeks or more the water should be clear, providing a safe aquarium environment.

When using a commercial saltwater mix, keep in mind whether it is used with tap water.  Or whether it is the kind to be used with pure fresh water (H2O hydrogen dioxide), such as distilled or deionized water, or water prepared by RO (reverse osmosis). 

Most saltwater mixes will depend upon tap water to provide some of the major, minor, and trace elements.  Tap water has all its own elements, including toxic heavy metals from the pipes.  Mixing tap water with commercial saltwater mixes increases the elements in the water.  Excessive tap-water conditions can greatly interfere with proper saltwater living conditions for the fishes and other coral reef animals.  To reinforce what has been said before, when tap water is used, it should be treated before being put in the aquarium to replace evaporated water or with the sea-salt mix.  The use of both Kordon NovAqua+ and AmQuel+ together are recommended to treat the tap water. 

If the commercial saltwater mix being used contains all the major, minor, and trace elements needed for replicating sea water, then when used with tap water there will be an excess of elements.  Therefore, it is important to be sure just what kind of a saltwater mix that you are using.  Kordon's Coral Sea saltwater mix is for use with tap water or brackish water for fish and coral reef aquariums.  For a pure fresh water (H2O hydrogen dioxide) source, it is recommended that a standard dose of Kordon Saltwater VitaTrace be added. 

* Tropical marine conditions on coral reefs are generally uniform around the world with nearly the same water conditions, whether it is water temperature, major/minor/and trace elements in the water, salinity, pH (acidity/alkalinity),  oxygen content, or level of toxic nitrogen compounds (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates).  Freshwater streams, rivers and lakes from which the freshwater fishes and other aquatic animals came from are far more variable in habitat throughout the year.  This means that freshwater fishes by necessity are tolerant of a far wider range of water conditions than tropical coral reef fishes.  Variations in saltwater conditions in the aquarium are very stressful to tropical marine fishes, as well as for most coral reef invertebrate animals (such as shrimp, crabs, sea anemones, nudibranchs, and corals).  It takes time and experience to learn about the narrower tolerances of marine aquarium keeping.

  For example, the pH on coral reefs is now uniformly at or near 8.2.  (It used to be 8.3, then between 8.2-8.3, but now presumably because of global warming and rising sea levels caused by melting glaciers, it has declined towards 8.2.)  While for freshwater tropical fishes, the pH can generally range in natural tropical fresh waters from being well below 6.8 to higher than 8.3.  Coral reef fishes and other coral reef animals are not adaptable to such wider ranging pHs.  At the extreme the pH needs to be kept between 8.0-8.4, and should be kept from varying more than 0.2 pH.

For another example, global warming is claimed to be the cause for the killing off of some coral reefs around the world.  The reports of high temperatures (up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit = 29 degrees Centigrade and above) may be what they have as their natural conditions in nature, but the optimum temperature for keeping these animals within the confines of aquariums is considerably lower at 72-80 degrees Fahrenheit = 22-27 degrees Centigrade).  The reason mainly has to do with the amount of oxygen absorbed into the water that is needed by the fishes and other aquatic organisms to survive, as discussed below.

Another consideration is in the light source in the aquarium.  Lighting in itself can increase water temperature.  Also, recent research has shown that brighter lighting can cause the corals and anemones on their own to absorb heat from the lighting that can be harmful to them -- even when there is no change in water temperature.  Particularly in new aquarium setups that are not in balance, excessive lighting can harm the coral and anemones without the aquarist being aware of what the actual cause is that is injuring or killing them.  Also, when stressed, the coral and anemones can give off toxins that are of harm to other aquarium inhabitants.  Therefore, when the coelenterates (coral and anemones) are unhappy, they can make everybody in the aquarium suffer with them. 


* Salt water holds less dissolved oxygen than fresh water under the same conditions.  Thus, if fresh water at a particular temperature holds 8 ppm oxygen, the salt water may hold 6 ppm or less in aquarium conditions.  This means that marine aquariums need more aeration and water movement than fresh water.  The safety margin for fish keeping is definitely less in marine conditions, and this constantly needs to be kept in mind.  Another factor is that inshore coral reefs that many of the marine aquarium fishes come from have strong tidal and water movement, the water often constantly being at or near the saturation level for oxygen -- a condition that is often difficult to maintain in aquariums.

*Day by day water evaporates from the aquarium, making the water saltier.  Hyper-salinity cuts down on the oxygen that there can be in water, and interferes with the physiology of the fishes and aquatic invertebrates.  Its replacement in aquariums should be by fresh water to make up for the water that has evaporated.  Use a hydrometer to measure the salinity of the water and follow its instructions for the proper level (seawater generally has a specific gravity of 1.022-1.025).

The organisms in the water will use up the trace elements and vitamins, and part of the other elements in the water. 

Regularly make partial water changes with the saltwater mix and water  sources that you are using to get the needed elements back into solution.  Use Kordon's Saltwater VitaTrace™ for replenishment of trace elements and vitamins needed in the water, and Kordon's Coral Sea for replenishing the saltwater mix.  If tap water is used to replace evaporated water, use Kordon's NovAqua+ and AmQuel+ to detoxify the tap water, which if untreated is toxic to fishes and other aquatic life.


* The main water conditions that the marine aquarist should be prepared to measure from the start is temperature (with a thermometer) and specific gravity (hydrometer).   Hydrometers for saltwater aquariums are usually calibrated to read correctly at around 25 degrees centigrade (=77o F).  While coral reef fishes are mostly from waters with a specific gravity of about 1.022-1.025, there are some that come from lagoons, inlets, and estuaries which can range from about 1.020 to 1.030, and may be lower if the fishes came from brackish water.  There may be the need to acclimate over time certain fishes and other sea life to the specific gravity being used.


* Getting the nitrogen cycle completed in a marine aquarium is harder than in a freshwater aquarium.  .  (also see Kordon Article "Biological Filtration" .)  The saltwater bacteria in the nitrogen cycle are different genera and species than in fresh water.  The "wild" bacteria that come in with the coral reef fishes and other coral-reef life may not readily adapt to aquarium conditions  It is recommended to add the proper tropical marine ammonifying and nitrifying bacteria so that the cycle gets the best quality bacteria, and the cycle is speeded up to get through it faster.  Kordon's marine ZymBac™ product is recommended, which uses professionally raised "domesticated" cultures of the right tropical marine ammonifying and nitrifying bacteria.  The nitrates that build up at the end of the nitrogen cycle are especially hard on coral reef animals, and should be kept below 10 ppm (= 10 mg/L), the lower the better for invertebrates.   It normally takes about 4-6 weeks to get through the nitrogen cycle, which under favorable conditions will be accelerated by days or weeks by the use of Kordon Saltwater ZymBac.


* The use of "live rock"  in a saltwater aquarium is a subject that will come up early on and needs clarification.  What is supposed to be meant by the term "live rock" is dead coral that is encrusted with live growths, such as coralline algae and other living organisms.  Using this kind of "live rock" immediately involves keeping the organisms alive, which should not be attempted until the aquarium is well established, and its requirements are well understood.

What is often meant by "live rock" in stores selling coral rock is not something alive at all, but actually is dead coral, consisting of the natural calcium carbonate structures of the original (now dead) live coral.  Having innumerable crevices, it is able to harbor and shelter coral-reef animals and plants, and be a major decorative and protective component in marine aquarium keeping.  Therefore, its "live" aspect is from what it can harbor, not that it is bringing in anything alive to the aquarium.  The dead coral is advantageous to use in marine aquariums because of its calcium carbonate which gradually leaches into the water, helping to buffer the pH of the water towards 8.2-8.3. 

* The use of protein skimmers in saltwater aquariums. This is another subject that needs understanding.  Protein skimmers are to take out cloudiness and toxic organics from the water. However, they also take out essential trace elements needed by the fishes for their health and particularly by any invertebrates and plant life in the water.  Regular use of Kordon's AmQuel+ will take care of the toxic organics without removing any of the trace elements in the water.  So its use can augment or take the place of using a protein skimmer for taking out toxic nitrogen compounds.  Consider the use of a protein skimmer later on when its pros and cons can be fully understood, or use it intermittently as needed to remove cloudiness and toxic organics from the water.  When using a protein skimmer, it is recommended to use Kordon's Saltwater VitaTrace to replace the trace elements eliminated by the protein skimmer.

As you can see, as you gain experience, the first weeks and months of marine aquarium keeping are a critical time in establishing the new environment.  Much can go wrong, and it needs to be done a step at a time, rather than trying to get all the inhabitants in together all at once.   

* Choosing the right coral reef fishes and invertebrates.  The anxious new aquarist would expect that this would be the first topic to consider in marine aquarium keeping.  Considering their interests in starting a new venture this makes sense.  But there is the need to consider getting the new marine aquarium operating successfully before taking the step of introductions.  Also, there is the consideration of what kinds of fishes and invertebrates are locally available.  There are thousands of kinds of coral reef fishes and invertebrates that are being brought into the hobby so the choice is considerable.  We will leave this topic up to the reader to determine what they want to have in their aquarium, to receive advice locally, and to pursue their reading on the subject

* Coral reef fishes are more aggressive than most freshwater tropical fishes.  Even such harmless looking marine fishes as some of the damsels and others can be far more belligerent than any freshwater counterparts.  Apparently it is a tougher world out there on coral reefs.  This means that providing obstacles and hiding places in a tropical marine aquarium are considerably more important than in freshwater conditions.   Since coral reef fishes are much more aggressive in releasing pheromones in the water to signal, repel, stake out territories, etc., which in the extreme can injure or kill other fishes confined in an aquarium, it is recommended to use regularly one of Kordon's Amquels to detoxify the pheromones in the water.  This is particularly true when shipping or transporting coral-reef fishes.  In close encounter more harmful pheromones are released.  (see Kordon Article "About Pheromones (animal body odors) Released by Fishes" ).

* Few of the tropical coral reef fishes and invertebrates that aquarists want to keep are commercially bred and raised, because how to do this has yet to be discovered. Only about 50 species of coral reef fishes are commercially cultured, most of them not being among the more popular marine aquarium fishes. The wild-caught fishes commonly available are unaccustomed to confinement.  It is best to provide larger aquariums for them than are normally considered for freshwater fishes.  The aquarist needs to be more cautious and caring in keeping these wild-caught fishes that have not been bred to aquarium conditions.  To get an idea of just how different coral reef fishes are from freshwater tropical fishes, see the Kordon Article "The Story About 'Wonder Water' -- Fresh And Saltwater Fish Living Together". 

*  When making the choice of what coral reef fishes to keep, we wish to mention again to be aware of the added beginning difficulties of keeping tangs (surgeon fishes, Acanthuridae), which are among the worst of the tropical fish disease carriers.   We receive more complaints involving tangs than any other coral reef fishes.  Nevertheless, once properly acclimated, they are hardy and readily adapt to aquarium conditions, truly being among the favorites in marine aquarium keeping.  Always quarantine in isolation newly acquired marine tangs, whether for a new or established aquarium with other fishes.  Quarantining may require longer than a month to be sure that the fish are not carriers of diseases, and preventative treatment by the use of Kordon naphthoquinone organics during quarantine is recommended.

Since most tropical coral reef fishes that aquarists acquire are wild caught, they bring in all the diseases that these fishes have accumulated in the wild. Before adding them to an existing aquarium, the new fishes need to be quarantined by the aquarist for a month or more to be sure that they are disease free.  During this time they should be treated daily with organic herbal medications that do not require water changes.  The use of one of Kordon's organic herbal treatments with naphthoquinones (Prevent Ich™, or Ich Attack™, or Rid Fungus™) is recommended for this purpose.  (see Kordon Article "The Importance of Quarantining New Fish Arrivals...").

 If the fish have multi-cellular parasites, such as black spot disease (worms) on the body, an effective treatment should be used, such as trichlorfon (Kordon's Trifon™ or praziquantel.  Also, Kordon's Formalin-3™ may be helpful.   In general, the medications that work for freshwater fishes also are effective for saltwater fishes.  Praziquantel has a short shelf life so be sure it is in date if this treatment is being used.

* Do not put invertebrates into a marine aquarium until  it has been fully cycled through the nitrogen cycle and is stable.  Invertebrates, such as shrimp, anemones, coral, and starfishes are more sensitive than most fishes to water quality.  When things go wrong, they can be the first to show it.  They should not be tried by beginners in aquarium keeping until sufficiently experienced.  (For more on the nitrogen cycle see Kordon Article "Biological Filtration..." ). 

As the marine aquarium gets older, there are three prominent considerations:
        --The marine aquarium may need extra doses of Kordon's AmQuel+ in order to detoxify the nitrates and other toxic nitrogen compounds that build up in older aquariums.  These nitrates and nitrogen compounds can be more toxic to fishes and especially to the invertebrates in marine aquariums than they are in fresh water, because coral reefs are essentially free of toxic nitrogen compounds in the water.  Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in the water, and the nitrates reading is a good indicator of how much other toxic nitrogen compounds are in the water for which there are no test kits.  Regularly use Kordon's AmQuel+ to detoxify the nitrates. 

        --The marine aquarium will have a sewage build up in the bottom sand or gravel, even with vacuum cleaning.  It is best to add the bacteria that will take care of this.  Kordon's Saltwater Tidy Tank™ has the group of special tropical bacteria and enzymes that will do this.
 
        --The marine aquarium needs partial changes of salt water in order to recover the major, minor and trace elements and vitamins in the water that have been utilized by the living organisms. Kordon's Coral Sea™ is recommended as a professional sea salt mix that has the elements for maintenance, growth, and reproduction of fishes, invertebrates, and plants.  There are many sea salt mixes on the market.  Kordon's "Coral Sea" can be trusted for containing the extra ingredients needed for the complete life cycles of coral reef fishes, invertebrates, and plants.  Also, trace elements and vitamins for the water can be provided by Kordon's Saltwater VitaTrace, which does not interfere with what is in regular sea water or saltwater mixes. 

 
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If you have read this far, hopefully you will have a better idea of what you need to know in starting out in "water and fish keeping."  For further information of help to you, it is recommended that you go to Kordon's Home Page and look for other Kordon Articles that are of interest.  They have further information that is beyond what is in this article.  This beginners article is still just the beginning, with more needed to be known.  There are many good articles on the Internet.  Simply searching the topic "Beginning Aquarist" will provide good insights well worth considering.  The sections above on marine aquarium keeping are just the beginning of what is needed to be known.  A search on the Internet for information about "Beginning Saltwater Aquarium" will provide many helpful sites.